You're playing a little tight IMO. Hands like A9 and A10 should definately be played in an unraised pot, from most positions. KJ, as well. K10 and QJ... they're definately +EV, but they may add a bit too much variance, so if you're uncomfortable with that, then don't play them.

Those hands should move you up a percent or 2. I'd say as long as you're a good post-flop player, you can probably play up to 30. Some people can gio more, but they have a LOT of variance. I think the ideal number here is between 24 and 27%.

Below are my stats with my thinking on generally strategy that makes the numbers. Together they might give you a better idea of how to get your game loosened up a little. I think overall individual session stats give a better idea of if you are playing too tight or too loose than combined, as each indidual session dictates what is and isn't a playable hand preflop.

In any given session I play 30-47%, PT shows me at 37.4% and that I'm winning 43% of the time that I see a flop and currently winning 58% of showdowns. The last stat has recently dropped a little over the past two session I should probably quit paying off some weak bets with middle pair or bottom pair with out a solid read that they were drawing. I am also raising preflop 6.53% of the time, which includes suited connectors, pairs 88 and up, if my position is favorable on weak players any two in the button or cutoff, but with preference to cards that can make a hand or actually hold up such as 55 KQs ATs. Individual games I vary between 2% and 10% preflop raise, depending on table conditions. PT has me labled as loose aggressive passive, i'm trying right now to be labled loose aggressive aggressive, and bet a few more flops, but generally calling station is calling and will chase me down with any piece, and check down his good hands when I'm playing true to PTs assumption of my play.

If I'm playing over 35% it is because I'm intending to steal with position regardless of my holdings in an unraised pot or against a loose aggressive-passive player in a raised pot. Position and properly playing money to me is more important than hand selection, if I did table selection correctly, I should win with out the best hand a fair amount of the time. If I'm playing proper aggressive poker I will have shifted gears to TAG and hold a hand to hammer them when they are sick of being stolen from, then back to LAG after showing down a monster, or forcing them to gamble and get lucky to beat me, either way they should have a healthy amount of fear and be worried more about their hand strength than mine. If it checks to you in the third seat with one player left to act after you, you should be betting your 22 at least 2/3 pot to pot sized bets, it is no longer a set it or forget it hand, what you do on the turn is dependant on you read of the opponent and his tendencies to call you down. I find betting the flop to be scarier to the opponent than betting the turn, as it may give them the idea that middle pair is good, where as they will doubt it at the flop, I also follow up to remove that doubt of middle pair being good should I be called with a turn bet and may fire again at the river if I think they were drawing. This style of play works best in games that end by the turn a majority of the time, if a game is frequently going to showdown I drastically tighten up and am more passive with medium pairs that may or may not be good, as my really good hands are going to get paid off anyways.

In late position, I might be playing 62o, A9 is definitely a playable hand. At a passive table in the first three seats I will play weak A especially suited and see if it is any good on the flop, or check raise against someone likely to be betting middle pair or worse in late position. The more aggressive a table is or if every hand is going to a showdown the more likely I am to lay down the junk and try to make a real hand. I still rarely go far below 30% of flops seen at a passive table as I'm trying to get in cheap with all kinds of unsuited connectors and overs. I still avoid kicker traps, but am willing to put some money in on the flop to see if I should be concerned about the kicker.

I recommend that when you start with six max to get comfortable with hands that you figure can make something from every position, as you get more comfortable with seeing KJo or 77 in the cut off win unimproved opening up a little and trying to take down some of the small unraised pots with other hands on the cheap if the presense of a true to the river calling station isn't at your table. How profitable this will be for you I can't say, but I'm having fair "luck" with it, when I don't get carried away, and apply opening up at the proper times. It is even fairly effective against players that know my general strategy as it still forces them to have some sort of hand to call, unless they want to get cute with raises and check raises and force me to shift gears. I should add that I think I'm a decent post-flop player and hand reader, if I misread a hand I'm very disappointed in myself, but don't mind having to shut down to heat or losing a little in my attempt to win a little.

Good luck, and play smart!

Yea, definately strive to play the way rdale does. I pretty much have the same hand philosophy... but I wasn't sure if it was very advisable as you were new to 6-max. Although, 63 off? I think I might have to fold that one!